CARE OF THE TABLE

Now that you have purchased a table from the Billiard Shop range of quality billiard tables, there are several important steps to follow if you wish to maintain your table in first class condition.

Moths, silverfish and other creepy crawlies are always a danger to the pure wool cloth, especially where small children with grubby hands are concerned and as many tables are used in conjunction with a bar, the risk of spillage and of spray from opening bottles and cans is inevitable. To counteract this problem the Billiard Shop suggests strict adherence to the following procedure is important:

The use as directed of a reputable surface spray applied lightly along and under edges of the clothed cushions will help stop breeding under cushions and between the bed cloth.

At the end of each playing session, packets of mothballs (fill up matchboxes) could be placed on the bed cloth at the drop edge of each pocket and 3 – 4 packets placed evenly down through the center of the table and then the table completely covered with a light billiard cover or sheet.

There are two types of cloth available to buyers of Billiard Shop Tables, English and Australian. Although they both have completely different characteristics, the overall useful life is much the same, provided you care for each one individually.

Australian Cloth always has a fluffy appearance and hence is a slightly slower rolling cloth.  This can be overcome slightly by an occasional rub over with your dry household iron.  The setting of your iron will range from warm to wool depending on how familiar you are with ironing your table. Never brush Australian cloth as this only increases its fluffy appearance. Keep felt clean with a feather duster or an occasional rub over with the vacuum cleaner (smooth head) is recommended.

English Cloth has a fine grained finish called “nap” which when rubbed the wrong way stands up, making the pile uneven and no better for play than Australian cloth.  It is a good policy to get into the habit of brushing down your table every time you have finished playing.  This is done with a Billiard table Brush moving in one direction only from the baulk-line (or “D”) toward the top end of the table (Black Ball Spot).  This action straightens the tangled and matted nap and lays it back in its original condition and also removes dust, chalk and other foreign matter from cloth.

After the cloth has been thoroughly brushed you may wish to occasionally vacuum your table for greater care.  This is again done in one direction only, the same as brushing and once every couple of months is adequate.

Ironing as mentioned with Australian cloth is very helpful in flattening unruly nap and should again be done in one direction only and straight after a good stiff brushing.  The setting of your dry iron should be between ”warm” and  “wool”.

If small “bald spots” appear in your cloth, the cause is usually vermin attack.  When whitish chalk-like appear, this is caused by striking the cue ball too low and grazing the cloth at the same time.  Billiard Shop warrants your table for 12 months against faulty workmanship. No warranty is given on the felt.

Care of polished timber surfaces surfaces especially that on the hand rails is very important as it is subject to knocks by belt buckles, buttons, rings, watches etc.  The Billiard Shop suggests regular use of a good quality furniture polish such as Marveer or O’Cedar is essential to keep scratch prone areas smooth and slippery.  When they are dry things will tent to grip and scratch. 

LEVELLING YOUR OWN TABLE

Levelling of your table is usually done by the trained staff from Billiard Shop.  Depending on the type of floor and floor covering the table can take anything from 4-6 weeks to settle properly.  On most occasions the table will come back level after this period and no adjustment will be necessary.  DO NOT attempt to adjust the level within this period.  If after 6 weeks the table still rolls, adjust up carefully using a spanner on the adjustable feet (clockwise will raise the table).

Make sure all feet are wound right in (anticlockwise) and that the center legs do not touch the ground.  If necessary raise the outside legs slightly to achieve this. 

With a level placed on the cloth diagonally in the center find the highest end at which to start.  From this highest point, raise the other leg at the same end until they are both level.  After you have leveled one end, place the level again diagonally in the center of the table and adjust the diagonally opposite legs to the ones you have just done. 

Next double check with the level across the width of the end you have just finished and if it is not correct on the level, equalize the difference by raising one leg up slightly and the other down.  Do not touch the center legs yet.

Now is the time to test with the roll of the ball.  Lengthwise and crosswise approximately 12” inside and parallel with each cushion, roll a slow straight ball, with no side on it, to bounce from opposite cushion and rebound back approximately ¾ the length.  On this return roll off the cushion you will tell which way if any the table falls.  Carefully adjust the appropriate outside leg accordingly.  In most cases, especially with 9’ tables, you will have, when shooting across the width, a tendency for the ball, on both ends, to run towards the center.  Just even up this fall until it is equal. 

Now wind down the center legs until they are tight on the floor.  Slowly, as you adjust the center legs more, you will see this sag in the table disappear. 

Everything should be okay now, so leave the table the 4-6 weeks to settle before any further adjustments.

On the very odd occasions after this settling period the slate could have a slight dip to the center and this can be alleviated by driving a timber wedge between the slate and center cross support.

REMEMBER:  Take a little extra care of your table and you will derive greater pleasure from its use.